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Sound deadening questions
Hi All,
Thought I might be able to get some answers here, I have been reading several forums and am confused by what I am reading.
First...
I have a 2020 Ford Transit Connect Cargo van.
I had a local shop install my mid & tweeters and sound deadening to my doors.
I had them use Kilmat because I have a couple boxes in my garage.
my question is, for the rest of the van. I will use kilmat, then do I need use use something else On top of that?
I am just trying to make vehicle quieter, It does resonate pretty well because it is a hollow metal box...
Sorry for Noob question..
Thanks for any and all help.
Re: Sound deadening questions
Maybe just do the damper and see how much of a difference it makes. I'd expect it to be significant in that van. It's not like you have to rip the interior out again if you wanna go further.
Does it have a rack on it? I'd definitely want a barrier on at least the roof if so. Those make all kinds of noise.
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Re: Sound deadening questions
No roof rack. Yeah I will post more pictures as I continue with the Kilmat.
I made a bed with storage underneath and room for a large sealed enclosure once I figure out what size box to use with this 12” Sub.
Re: Sound deadening questions
there's usually 3 products together. CLD/deadener, closed cell foam to decouple, and a sound barrier to stop noise. CCF usually to stop plastic panels from buzzing next to other surfaces.
probably want a sound barrier next, like mlv (1/8" thick, 1lb per sq ft) or sheet lead (1/64" thick, 1lb per sq ft)
do all once while it's apart. pulling it all apart to add other stuff kinda sucks :)
Re: Sound deadening questions
I'd run VB2 on almost every surface in that mamma-jamma. Then run VB4 on the floor space. After treating the large areas with a CLD of your choice.
Re: Sound deadening questions
I'm shopping for an inexpensive one myself, now.
FWIW - I don't skimp on actual damping material. You need damping material to really adhere well, and be good, to absorb vibrations. Don't skimp on that.
I do buy cheap CCF and MLV. Most recently I actually gambled and bought some CCF on Wish - seriously - and it actually was great. Cost me like $100 for 100 sq/ft. Bargain.
CCF is a barrier product, there's some who say it does nothing- I don't know, seems you need a barrier to stop sound from penetrating - the barrier layer needs to NOT vibrate, so MLV can absorb the sound.
MLV is known to only be manufactured in a few places. It's basically "all the same". And it doesn't even have adhesive to worry about, because you again don't want it directly stuck to your vehicle's vibrating panels. It's heavy as hell - if you care about that like I do (I like small, light, fun cars that handle) buy 1/16"
It also doesn't heat form too well. I mean, it'll stretch like vinyl but unlike vinyl you aren't gluing it down. I used 10mm CCF in my hatch so I'd have a good barrier layer, because it's a hatchback and I want to try to stretch it and form it to my spare tire well - that's a hell of a tall ask for a stretch even if I'm gluing it - which I'll have to - hence the thick barrier layer. I'll probably still end up with seams and patchwork in the well :lol:
But that's the gist:
Damping material - this absorbs vibrations. You don't need 100% coverage, just enough to stop the panels from vibrating. You want decent stuff with decent adhesive, and clean your surfaces and use heat.
Closed Cell Foam - comes in 5mm-10mm thicknesses. It's just a barrier layer to decouple the MLV. Thicker is better except you have to fit these things behind panels, so keep that in mind.
Mass Loaded Vinyl - comes in 1/16" and 1/8", and damn the 1/8" is heavy. You know those lead blankets when you get Xrays? :lol: This is what you use to block outside sound from entering your vehicle, and you have to do a good job so you don't have gaps where it can get through.
It's a hell of a project since you basically have to strip your interior out, then go through the process three times with three layers - so I'm envious of the fact that you have a van to do this to. :cool:
Re: Sound deadening questions
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Pb82 Ronin
I'd run VB2 on almost every surface in that mamma-jamma. Then run VB4 on the floor space. After treating the large areas with a CLD of your choice.
I have to also agree with this-
This is the all-in-one solution that's easiest to install... it's just much more expensive.
Doing it my way, I end up with about $1/foot for each layer - and actually call it $4/foot because decent damping material costs more. So for 150 sq.ft. for my little Civic hatchback, we're at $600.
If I did Cascade VB2 and VB4, I'd be so much happier from an ease-of-install perspective - but is $10 sq/ft. for VB4 and about $6 sq/ft. for VB2. Call it $8 sq.ft to buy half and half of both for rough estimate purposes - So $1200 for my 150 sq.ft.
Either way, it's an investment - but a worthwhile one. You really might be grateful to spend the extra $600 to make the installation a bit more foolproof and definitely less labor-intensive.
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Re: Sound deadening questions
Sorry for odd pictures no matter how I format them they come out wrong, not sure what the issue is. So as you can see I did get a start on the sound deadening.
I sure appreciate all the help and tips all!
Thanks
Re: Sound deadening questions
I will look into this as my next step for sure. Thanks again for the solid tips.
Re: Sound deadening questions
Oh boy..
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