2004 Toyota Sienna

My soccer dad van needs an upgrade.
I'll be installing what I gutted from my previous car/setup:

Hu: Pioneer deh-80prs
Tweets: Dayton nd25fa-4
Midrange: Seas 4.5 L11RC/P
Midbass: peerless SLS 6.5. Or possibly vifa 10" M26WR-09-08
Sub: IDQ 15s sealed.

Pictures to come.

Plans: Dash pods for the tweets and midrange.
Midbass in the doors. 6.5s IB or sealed for the 10"s (deciding if I want to go through the cutting of the door panels and to fiberglass the enclosure. Glassing can be a pain.
Large sealed enclosure for the idq15's. 5.45cuft net for the two.

The HU is 3-way so I'll have to use an RCA output from the MIdbass amp to feed the sub amp. No time alignment for subs because of that.

Disclaimer: I am a broke mofo. I'll state that so people don't expect some fancy gear and install.
Being that I'm installing in my 2004 Sienna shoukd give that away, but I feel it must be stated.

I'll be using all my old gear and what I have laying around. pretty much everything, except some fabrication materials. Being a hoarder is paying off right now.

I've read that fiberglass resin doesn't really bond with hdpe, so I had to scrap my original baffle rings for the dash pods. Replaced with good ol wood. I used pine wood from scrap. This warehouse sells off their shipping crates for only $5. Not the best wood, but plenty enough for 4.5" midranges that will play down to 250hz

https://i.imgur.com/w5sq0qZ.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/gt6rrbQ.jpeg

It's a little late for this as the pods are already done, but I could have shaved down the tweet flange to tighten up the center-to-center distance of the tweet and midrange. Oh well.

Pods braced and wrapped:

https://i.imgur.com/Wyp4t8y.jpeg

A few layers of glass later:

https://i.imgur.com/kfQNfs6.jpeg

Trimmed

https://i.imgur.com/D74Hka6.jpeg

Flattened the baffle surface with a belt sander then used the flush trim bit

https://i.imgur.com/H5p3ELi.jpeg

Don't mind the extremely messy garage

https://i.imgur.com/fhCTtKm.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/5PsWFhc.jpeg

Dampened. Outside because I forgot to do so before sealing them...

https://i.imgur.com/SZ1EsOC.jpeg

Nice progress. What material will you be wrapping the pillars with?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by BigAl205

Nice progress. What material will you be wrapping the pillars with?

---

I haven't decided yet. Whatever it is, I'll have to also do the same for the A-pillar panels. It might be the black speaker grill cloth I already have, as to not need to buy anything, but I'll have to maybe spray a coat of black spray paint on it, because the last time I used it, it had a faded-black purple color to it from the sun.


Here's the weird coloration:
The A-pillar and the grill used the same cloth,but only the grill had the coloration. Idk why

https://i.imgur.com/QC6Tk6w.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/KG8XjSv.jpeg

So I got a little lazy. Even though I went out to get some body filler, I decided not to use it and started wrapping the dash pods.
I first wrapped with speaker box carpet, then grill cloth on top of that. The goal was to use the carpet like a batting material covering the imperfections of the fiberglass. It kind of worked.

Carpet:

https://i.imgur.com/3eRPwbL.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/JfwuvpQ.jpeg

Grill cloth:

https://i.imgur.com/0OiSNEz.jpeg

Passenger side has more bumps that still show. Oh well.

https://i.imgur.com/kEHRngJ.jpeg

To make a cover to be stealth, since I live in a pretty ghetto city, I might utilize the hdpe baffle I originally made for the pods. The plan is to first route the back part to fit over the speakers. Though the clearances are small I need to route about half the depth of the baffle. Hopefully it's forgiving. Then wrap them with grill cloth and attach them with small magnets, if I can find where I put them

https://i.imgur.com/kgL1Rf1.jpeg

Now I need to wrap the stock A-pillar panels with the grill cloth to match. I also want the A-pillars black, because I mentally feel I have a more narrow and shallow stage when the A-pillars is a light color on my face. Closing my eyes to listen will fix that, but I can't drive that way.

The subwoofer...

The sealed enclosure was already built, but not wrapped yet.
Birch plywood. I love that it's sturdy and light weight, but $90 for a sheet was painful.

Simple boring rectangle cube 5.4cuft to fit in the rear storage space.

https://i.imgur.com/qgcVhDx.jpeg

But... The subwoofer plan may change from dual sealed, to a single 15" IB.
Now the output will definitely drop, but it will be much more stealth and have a little awe factor, for me at least, if I can pull it off.

I will need to vent the IDQ 15 out of the cabin pressure vent, which was conveniently where the stock sub enclosure was.
Panel removed:

https://i.imgur.com/7mYCq2E.jpeg

What's behind the panel with OEM sub removed (8" sealed)

https://i.imgur.com/5Jmgj37.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/vbtkB2P.jpeg

The vent to Infinity and beyond:

https://i.imgur.com/QoENtTA.jpeg

Does it fit?

https://i.imgur.com/8njH9bT.jpeg

Is that a 15" in your quarter panel, or are you just happy to see me?

https://i.imgur.com/1zet83w.jpeg


Oh, here's the stock sub grill with the carpet and jbl emblem removed that will be hacked up to accommodate the 15"

https://i.imgur.com/xxbe3Ur.jpeg

My decision to have 10" midbasses again has been made, for panels have been cut and there's no turning back now.
My previous setup had Peerless SLS 10s in a leaky door. This time, I'm hoping to go sealed to circumvent any door panel resonances and rattles. More fabrication, less door treatments.

OEM for panel:

https://i.imgur.com/dmYXdrW.jpeg

Melted plastic rivets held the bottom portion on, which I hope to use to shape the bottom when I'm glassing.
The idea is just to wrap the bottom piece in place with a flat wood back side and just glass over it.

https://i.imgur.com/COBZ2Mr.jpeg
https://i.imgur.com/EvxGV6M.jpeg

Lower portion cut:

https://i.imgur.com/pKBZRmM.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/6GyvJAe.jpeg

More cutting

https://i.imgur.com/m9pvUBu.jpeg

Mock up: I'll try to aim it just a little bit later

https://i.imgur.com/mn8IDm3.jpeg

Some metal will need to be cut to accommodate the depth and the motor vent.

Dash pods wired up. Added a nut rivet to the a-pillar panel to screw the pods to.
Bought the rivet nut tool for this build and found a M6 screw in my hoarder stash to use.
https://i.imgur.com/XdJ7Q39.jpeg

One pic only. It was 1:00am by the time I wired up the amps and speakers to finally get some sound.
I now have 150hz and up available. Tweets need breaking in, but the midranges are definitely much better than they were: firing up from the dash without an enclosure.

My amps location is a little weird, so I'll save that for later, til I find a way to make it junkie worthy, though they're just an old Eclipse 36401 and Hifonics Zeus amps.

So the cabin pressure vent that will be used to vent the sub for IB is 9 x 4.5" = 40.5 in². The sub's cone area is 130in²
So I have about 1/3 the cone area. I've been trying to search how much vent space you need to not cause any issues. I've read Patrick Bateman on diyma stating one can get away with 1/4 the cone area. Some say you should have the size of the cone area (won't happen). There doesn't seem to be definitive rule regarding this.

On a side note, I bought a sheet of birch plywood to build the box for the subs that won't be used.

So according to Pssound, 1/2 the Sd minimum is needed for the IB vent to not have any negative effects.

https://youtu.be/sZjDnsoVm1w?si=yyJp...3cBKe&t=21m38s

A little progress made on the sealed enclosures for the doors.
Some metal was cut to try and get as much air space as possible. Trying to balance getting air space, and the ease of building the enclosure. Full fiberglass would give the most air volume, but I am not up for all that glassing.
So I'm going half wood and half glass.

Ideally, I'd like 1 cuft for a Q of .7, but I'm estimating I'll get around 0.7 cuft.

1cuft would give an F3 of 63hz and 0.7cuft 73hz, so the enclosure size will decide if the midbass is HP'd at 63hz or 80hz.

Onto building: A template was made, but I had to trim a lot of it after this picture because it wouldn't let the door close.

https://i.imgur.com/uv416IN.jpeg

Copied it to the other side... Because stereo, not mono

https://i.imgur.com/twmfVkD.jpeg

Metal has been cut behind the driver and the access hole. All to gain a whopping ~0.08cuft

https://i.imgur.com/KjDreSs.jpeg

After the cutting, structural integrity was degraded and this more narrow portion moves more than I want it to, 90 angle aluminum piece will be bolted to brace this section. It'll be on the backside, it's shown in the front just for the picture.

https://i.imgur.com/MMpdvD7.jpeg

Two layers of 3/4" and it barely clears the window tract. This is the backside of the door enclosure's base. The middle layer will be just a frame and the other layer will be routed down to 1/2".

https://i.imgur.com/ZJe2J6X.jpeg

That's impressive right there. Nice progress!

A little progress on the midbass enclosures: Some router work on the base to get as much airspace as I can.

Some grooves 1/4" deep. The slab is 3/4" birch plywood so some spots are now 1/2".

https://i.imgur.com/d8osT9U.jpg

Routed out 1/4" on the bottom layer of those rectangles that go into the door toward the window tracts:

https://i.imgur.com/tM70ZfT.jpg

Middle layer cut like a frame for the depth:

https://i.imgur.com/aOBKgEN.jpg

Those cubbies glued and screwed on. Top pieces also added. They go up and under the door panel:

https://i.imgur.com/0l8s7sq.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/UinziYg.jpg

Looking up under the door panel as mentioned earlier.

https://i.imgur.com/SVyqTfK.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/UinziYg.jpg

Bottom panel cut. There was a little lip I wanted removed :

https://i.imgur.com/Jyn1mzP.jpg

Raised the bottom plastic panel ½” up. The total height should barely clear the seat controls:

https://i.imgur.com/EFdvfIY.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/d9rabLQ.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/2QSrvJJ.jpg

I'm using the bottom portion for shaping purposes, to make it look presentable. Hopefully, I'm not the best at the finishing part. I'm not sure how I even want to finish it. Paint? Wrap? Make it match the Dash Pods? Two tone door panel? Try to paint and match the OEM gray panel?

I think I found another way to add some more air space before I wrap this sucker and start fiberglassing:

I can add more space by adding some wood and enclosing the red circled areas (below pics). The door panel has a little armrest which flips up to access a little plastic storage compartment. That compartment will be cut and shortened a whole lot to make more room for the enclosure instead. Therefore, some more cutting, gluing and screwing is needed. I might get ~.03cuft

https://i.imgur.com/kcRPBTO.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/LGcPfE0.jpg

Added a little more air space.

https://i.imgur.com/oTQiYfT.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/tHcBFHp.jpeg

Houston we have a problem; we can't fit the armrest back on without cutting the pocket.

https://i.imgur.com/gNik6xm.jpeg

I'll cut that sucker up soon and maybe just glue some enclosure carpet under it. It won't fit much after. Maybe a spare 9mm magazine.

Mounting rings need to be routed out and mounted next

Yeah, I'd probably own that van for years not even realizing a pocket was under there

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by BigAl205

Yeah, I'd probably own that van for years not even realizing a pocket was under there

---

Small sacrifices for 63hz gains.

https://y.yarn.co/fd5de9bb-bb48-4750...7927b_text.gif

I can't physically work on the install, so I guess I'll just post about it.

When I first cut the door panel, I just went with the flow of the OEM design. I now plan to cut it a little bit higher, shown in the following pic. The plan is the add a brace towards the top and have it span horizontally to have dual purpose: to brace the enclosure for more rigidity and to help form the shape, to raise the shape so the cloth will hug the bottom of the door panel. The enclosure will stick out quite a bit compared to the door panel, about 2", so I'll have to try and make it flow back to the door panel as best as I can. If it doesn't flow well, then I'll just claim "function over form."


https://i.imgur.com/n27Qnco.jpg



I could have made the enclosure stick out further for more space, but the seat adjustment controls sticks out a bit from the seat:

https://i.imgur.com/cGxnq2G.jpg


I'll need to keep that the clearances in mind for when I add the fiberglass layers along with wrapping the enclosure. I just may go with the carpet then grill cloth like I did with the dash pods.

Furthermore, I'll have to figure out how to protect the midbass drivers. This will be the first time I'll tinker with large DIY grill covers. I don't have the commonly used metal speaker mesh, but I do have a lot of 1/2" hardware cloth leftover from my chicken coop build.
Thinking out loud: I'll have to flush the driver enough to accommodate for the DIY grill. I'll plane down the grill ring to about 1/2" and roundover the outer edge. Rabbet the inside to fit the hardware cloth to allow for some excursion. Or wondering if I can somehow make a 1/8" slot halfway up the inside of the ring to tuck in the hardware cloth.

According to this video: https://youtu.be/DXclhRegDGw?si=co8I...8k07fU&t=5m20s

Polyfill can make the woofer act like it's 20% larger enclosure. I already planned to add some,but it's nice to see it have a measurable difference. IF I'm not able to achieve 1cuft for the enclosure, the polyfill should help me achieve the goal of having an F3 of ~63hz. Things are looking good.

These door enclosures are definitely challenging me. Small progress is taking a lot of time, which I don't have a lot of.

I got the mounting rings cut and routed to fit a future mesh grill.

I mounted the midbass drivers with possible future upgrades /replacements in mind. I have 3/4" of clearance if I would need a driver with a larger magnet.

https://i.imgur.com/KsQ1dGt.jpeg

Panel has been cut more.

https://i.imgur.com/AW90B8O.jpeg

And sadly where the driver is located is where the OEM panel starts tapering in and gets more narrow. The driver from this picture sticks out quite a bit.

https://i.imgur.com/mJeiiHg.jpeg

It'll take some creative glass and body filler work to make it look good. I don't think I can do the usual wrap and glass. It'll have to be glassed in stages to give me the shape I want.

Little progress with the midbass.

Door panels cut a little more. The enclosure needed some modifications to accommodate for the new door panel shape.


https://i.imgur.com/fylZE0x.jpeg

Glassed the top part of the door panel. I'm thinking of having this as a template to then wrap a cloth to, going upwards. Then wrap the rest of the enclosure. I'll also try some thin wood strips between the mounting rings to the door panel.

https://i.imgur.com/cAK8KTM.jpeg

I've never worked this hard before just for 63hz -200hz before...

It's finally taking some shape.

Almost time to wrap the sucker and apply layers upon layers upon of fiberglass. Then milkshake to bring all the boys to the yard and stuff.
https://i.imgur.com/4jmQZGV.jpeg

Top portion is sealed off.

https://i.imgur.com/drtBf9F.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/ge6YpKt.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/PmJFV3C.jpeg

So the dual IDQ 15s go boom boom and rattles were had.

Added some CLD tiles to the rear door/hatch and braced right behind the the license plate with a nut rivet, bolt, and rubber washer

https://i.imgur.com/GXPIHwQ.jpeg

Added weather seal and felt tape to decouple things

https://i.imgur.com/BGJXx5L.jpeg

Felt tape added to loose fitting clips and to all the holes where the panels clip in for a slightly tighter fit

https://i.imgur.com/0w37qGe.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/hkfgayw.jpeg

Twas able to wrap and initially glass the left side... Then ran out of resin.

https://i.imgur.com/JsT9nNi.jpeg

The middle part looks like it can use some bracing. It's a bit flat.

Team Poor Bastard SQ update
I had to replace the old Eclipse 36401 amp that was bridged to power the 8ohm midranges. The left channels (1&2) were acting wonky and I had to have the gain lamost maxed to get the desired output to match the levels of the tweeters that were powered by the HU.

~$220 was spent on 2 amps: Recoil DI800.4 and DI1200.4. Budget class D amps that dyno to produce advertised wattage. They're surprisingly small. I just hope they last.

The 1200.4 will be bridged to power midbasses (when they are finished), the 800.4 is bridged for the midranges, which are definitely producing the desired output. With a HP of 200hz, they are handling it fine.

The tweets are now powered by 2/4 channels of the Hifonics Zeus 616.4 - didn't need to bridge them obviously. With more wattage to the tweets, the system level as a whole has been raised, since the tweets were the reference level to be matched by the other amplified drivers.

The small recoil amps were picked because they are tucked under the front seats.

The setup is sounding pretty good as is without the midbass drivers and the subs filling in with a low pass of 125hz. Surprisingly, if the sub levels are matched the midranges help pull the midbass produced by the subs to the front. Something I didn't expect.

https://i.imgur.com/YJ5acTX.jpeg

I need to vacuum and bring in the rug cleaner... But I hear all the dirt is beneficial to the acoustics.

Got a little work done on the door pods while wifey and baby girl was asleep.

Knocking on the pods, the large flat middle area sounded too much like a lively drum, the opposite of dead, so I added a few more layers of fiberglass and resin.

I didn't add an internal brace before wrapping and glassing, so I might try to use a bolt and a threaded insert from behind to act like a brace.

While adding layers to the pods, I was constantly being thankful that I have a bubble busting fiberglass roller. With it, I'm able to slop on resin and layer up quickly. After two layers across the whole face of the pod, I go crazy with the roller and the resin wets out and I can add more chopped mat and continue to roll. As you roll it grabs resin from areas around the newly added chopped mat and covers it. I noticed the roller flattening out the work piece, which should make the body filler stage a little easier. But it'll still be a huge pain with sanding.

The door pods probably won't be very visually appealing like the dash pods, but I'm praying they'll sound better than they'll look. I don't have it in me for any re-dos...
Unlike that sexual intercourse build log who had like 10 iterations of his front stage/dash.
/Pillars


https://i.imgur.com/lMyVG39.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/OxKOK2I.jpeg

I haven't measured the airspace of the dash pods yet, but it's sounding like it might need to be bigger. The 4.5" Seas are high passed at 160hz and the bottom end of vocals are much to prominent than the rest, even after -6db cuts
The spec sheet shows a nice curve with the driver in a 2.5 liter sealed enclosure, so I'll aim for that.

I have two options I can think of without needing to build new pods (which I probably should because they don't look the best... ...if I do rebuild, I'll try tweets in the sails and midrange in the same location, slightly more on axis.
1. Vent the pods into the dash. The pods currently sit on top of the OEM speaker location to vent to.
2. Use a uniseal and add a length of PVC pipe to gain the additional desired airspace that routes thru the OEM speaker location


Technically, I supposed I can try #1 first then add the pipe if the venting doesn't work out. I'm really liking the punch/kick/attack of the sealed pods, so I'm leaning to staying sealed.
Testing to come...

Hole saw set arrives tomorrow so I can drill the vent holes in the dash pods. Uniseal and 1.5" PVC on deck to test afterwards. The pvc pipe will need to be 17" to gain the desired 0.5 liters. The driver side will be able to accommodate that easily, but I'm not so sure about the passenger.

No pics, but I've been slowly working on the midbass door enclosures. I can only squeeze in maybe a hour here and there.

I only have a few spot to fill in with bondo hair (sand paper is cheaper than Evercoat products lol) and final body filler before deciding how to finish them. Leaning towards matching the dash pods. I like the slight plush feel the carpet gives under the grill cloth.

Aw chit, we're almost there.

I measured one of the door enclosures and it came out to almost perfectly 28 liters /1 cuft, not counting speaker displacement.There was some leakage, but a round of milk shake should handle that.

Some sanding and modifications needed as the passenger side rubs the gasket/molding. It also butts up against the seat adjustment switches, So I'll just be wrapping them with grill cloth without the carpet. Or just leave it be with the groovy bondo camouflage.

The passenger side was fired up for just a few minutes and I'm really liking it, but there's a lot of tactile feel on the passenger seat. Not sure if it's the sub or midbass.

https://i.imgur.com/3wdYSoM.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/YY1O1Ou.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/othY2na.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/RqgpsM0.jpeg

I was also able to add the pvc pipes to the dash pods. They still have a little peak around 250-315hz, but it's far more tamed than prior.
The deh-80prs is limited to cutting only 6db but more is needed. Using the added EQ on PlexAmp and it's much better.

To get the pvc pipe to fit on the passenger side, the OEM JBL amp had to be removed. It was right next to the ECU, thankfully, it was just the amp that was in the way

Uniseal, PVC, and cap.

https://i.imgur.com/reympuB.jpeg

Door enclosure completed.

Wrapped with grill cloth. Not the best match with the doors, but it is what it is. It's my old daily non competing car.

Time to sit, listen, tune, tune tube. wash rinse repeat.

I have some issues with it, though. The clearances are very tight and the driver side enclosure rubs a bit when opening and closing the door. I'll have to live with it.

Other than that, it's sounding great. The output potential is crazy. I definitely can't/won't use them to their potential as the midrange and tweets struggle to keep up, along with my ears. They're currently bandpassed frok 63hz-200hz. I don't know the exact HP as I have to use the analog HP pot on the amp, (my way to run 4 way with this HU that's limited to a 3-way Xover network). I'm running a long DIY Y-cable from the sub RCA Outs on the HU to the midbass amp and sub amp. The sub output on the HU is just low-passed at 200hz, and the amps' crossover will split the midbass and sub. The issues I have is not knowing the exact xover points between the midbass and sub, and the time alignment is limited to the midbasses.


Some pics

https://i.imgur.com/L9Xk34r.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/ZmpseU0.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/M5jV2rF.jpeg

I've only gotten a short tuning session so far. One thing I noticed was how quickly my ears experienced some fatigue simply by having the left midbass slightly louder than the right. Once they were leveled, it was a drastic difference.
If one side's midrange or highs is more hot, it'll just shift my center focus and/or cause the center to bleed to the left or right, but it wouldn't have the fatiguing affect like the midbass did.

Welp, now time for a break before I start fabricating one IDQ 15 IB in the rear quarter panel. The sealed enclosure for 2 15"s will be used for now.

https://i.imgur.com/MlVRA9h.jpeg

https://i.imgur.com/ftSymxg.jpeg