#21
Are you not entertained?!?!
#22
I can't physically work on the install, so I guess I'll just post about it.
When I first cut the door panel, I just went with the flow of the OEM design. I now plan to cut it a little bit higher, shown in the following pic. The plan is the add a brace towards the top and have it span horizontally to have dual purpose: to brace the enclosure for more rigidity and to help form the shape, to raise the shape so the cloth will hug the bottom of the door panel. The enclosure will stick out quite a bit compared to the door panel, about 2", so I'll have to try and make it flow back to the door panel as best as I can. If it doesn't flow well, then I'll just claim "function over form."
I could have made the enclosure stick out further for more space, but the seat adjustment controls sticks out a bit from the seat:
I'll need to keep that the clearances in mind for when I add the fiberglass layers along with wrapping the enclosure. I just may go with the carpet then grill cloth like I did with the dash pods.
Furthermore, I'll have to figure out how to protect the midbass drivers. This will be the first time I'll tinker with large DIY grill covers. I don't have the commonly used metal speaker mesh, but I do have a lot of 1/2" hardware cloth leftover from my chicken coop build.
Thinking out loud: I'll have to flush the driver enough to accommodate for the DIY grill. I'll plane down the grill ring to about 1/2" and roundover the outer edge. Rabbet the inside to fit the hardware cloth to allow for some excursion. Or wondering if I can somehow make a 1/8" slot halfway up the inside of the ring to tuck in the hardware cloth.
Last edited by James Bang; 4 Weeks Ago at 04:57 PM.
#23
According to this video: https://youtu.be/DXclhRegDGw?si=co8I...8k07fU&t=5m20s
Polyfill can make the woofer act like it's 20% larger enclosure. I already planned to add some,but it's nice to see it have a measurable difference. IF I'm not able to achieve 1cuft for the enclosure, the polyfill should help me achieve the goal of having an F3 of ~63hz. Things are looking good.
#24
These door enclosures are definitely challenging me. Small progress is taking a lot of time, which I don't have a lot of.
I got the mounting rings cut and routed to fit a future mesh grill.
I mounted the midbass drivers with possible future upgrades /replacements in mind. I have 3/4" of clearance if I would need a driver with a larger magnet.
Panel has been cut more.
And sadly where the driver is located is where the OEM panel starts tapering in and gets more narrow. The driver from this picture sticks out quite a bit.
It'll take some creative glass and body filler work to make it look good. I don't think I can do the usual wrap and glass. It'll have to be glassed in stages to give me the shape I want.
#25
Little progress with the midbass.
Door panels cut a little more. The enclosure needed some modifications to accommodate for the new door panel shape.
Glassed the top part of the door panel. I'm thinking of having this as a template to then wrap a cloth to, going upwards. Then wrap the rest of the enclosure. I'll also try some thin wood strips between the mounting rings to the door panel.
#26
I've never worked this hard before just for 63hz -200hz before...
It's finally taking some shape.
Almost time to wrap the sucker and apply layers upon layers upon of fiberglass. Then milkshake to bring all the boys to the yard and stuff.
Top portion is sealed off.
#27
So the dual IDQ 15s go boom boom and rattles were had.
Added some CLD tiles to the rear door/hatch and braced right behind the the license plate with a nut rivet, bolt, and rubber washer
Added weather seal and felt tape to decouple things
Felt tape added to loose fitting clips and to all the holes where the panels clip in for a slightly tighter fit
Last edited by James Bang; 2 Weeks Ago at 01:40 PM.
#28
Twas able to wrap and initially glass the left side... Then ran out of resin.
The middle part looks like it can use some bracing. It's a bit flat.
#29
Team Poor Bastard SQ update
I had to replace the old Eclipse 36401 amp that was bridged to power the 8ohm midranges. The left channels (1&2) were acting wonky and I had to have the gain lamost maxed to get the desired output to match the levels of the tweeters that were powered by the HU.
~$220 was spent on 2 amps: Recoil DI800.4 and DI1200.4. Budget class D amps that dyno to produce advertised wattage. They're surprisingly small. I just hope they last.
The 1200.4 will be bridged to power midbasses (when they are finished), the 800.4 is bridged for the midranges, which are definitely producing the desired output. With a HP of 200hz, they are handling it fine.
The tweets are now powered by 2/4 channels of the Hifonics Zeus 616.4 - didn't need to bridge them obviously. With more wattage to the tweets, the system level as a whole has been raised, since the tweets were the reference level to be matched by the other amplified drivers.
The small recoil amps were picked because they are tucked under the front seats.
The setup is sounding pretty good as is without the midbass drivers and the subs filling in with a low pass of 125hz. Surprisingly, if the sub levels are matched the midranges help pull the midbass produced by the subs to the front. Something I didn't expect.
I need to vacuum and bring in the rug cleaner... But I hear all the dirt is beneficial to the acoustics.
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